XVII. Ama Dablam 6.856 m & Lobuche East 6.119 m

„The Matterhorn of the Everest Region"

with best akklimatisation to Ama dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition, Ama Dablam Besteigung, Am Dablam route, Ama Dablam Basislager, Ama Dablam Daten & Fakten

Look at the ascent route (c) Willi Comploi

The homeland of the Sherpas, the Solu Khumbu region, has made Ama Dablam world famous – this fabulously prominent peak has long become the emblem of the whole area. Every mountaineer who has seen this delicate figure rise behind Tengpoche Monastery must be possessed by the desire to stand on top of this remarkable summit once. Surely, this wish will be granted to few, however, since only the one that is agile in steep ice as well as demanding rock will have a chance to climb the supposedly most beautiful mountain of Nepal. Yet today all technical sections of the climb are usually well secured by many meters of fixed rope, making this extraordinary adventure accessible not only to the elite climber but the experienced standard climber who can master difficulties of grade IV (UIAA)/5.5 (US) in alpine terrain. Our itinerary grants you the best acclimatization possible by climbing Lobuche East 6.119 m – a rewarding ascent of its own – before approaching Ama Dablam.


This expedition will be led by a UIAGM Mountain Guide and experienced expedition leader from our AMICAL alpin team.


• Organisation of the entire expedition

• Climbing permit, including all other fees

Experienced AMICAL alpin expedition leader, UIAGM      Mountain Guide

• Air flight Germany - Kathmandu/Nepal and back, 30 kg check in, 7 kg hand baggage free (if you should travel from a different origin other than Germany we can exclude the international flights)

• Transfer flights from other countries of origin upon request (additional charges)

• Air traffic fees and duties in all countries

• All transfers and sightseeings according to program

• 4 x Hotel**** (DR, HB) in Kathmandu

• 12 x Lodge (DR, HB) on trekking, lunches on the way in lodges

• In BC (ST, FB) and HCs (DT,FB

) • Baggage transport to BC and back (yaks/mules, porters), 30 kg personal baggage

• Sirdar, cook, kitchen boys in BC

• Complete BC equipment (diner, shower, toilet, sleeping tent, etc.)

• Complete HC equipment (tent, stove, gas, etc.)

• 1 camping mattress/person • Complete route fixing gear


• Organization of air cargo and customs formalities (additional charges according to weight)

• 2-3 Nepalese Climbing Sherpas (2 up to 9, 3 up to 12 members), including wages, insurance, food&lodging, summit bonus

• Heated double wall dining tent

• Single person sleeping tent in BC

• Eco-friendly solar power supply in BC

• One walkie talkie per person

• Satellite telephone, expedition weather forecast in BC and HCs

• Abundant additional food and snacks in BC and HCs, including special dietary supplements (mineral drinks, power gels, bars, specialties from home)

• Medical hyperbaric chamber CERTEC BAG

• First aid kit, emergency oxygen systems, Pulsoxymeter in BC and HCs

• 1 AMICAL alpin present

• Expedition postcards

• Preparatory meeting before the expedition


physical fitness

You are an alpinist with a very good endurance and a high degree of commitment and team spirit. You are able to master daily stages of 6-8 h, a summit day of 12 h or more (ascent and descent). The common group material, such as security equipment, fix ropes, tents, as well as setting up the high camps will be supported by the Climbing Sherpas. Nevertheless, you will have to be able to deal with a backpack weighing up to 15 kilograms or more at these high elevations.

TECHNIcal skills

You are a solid climber and glacier traveler, able to climb steep ice and firn slopes of up to 40° without being belayed by a rope or using fix ropes in standard situations (short sections, no crevasses). A perfect routine with ice axe and crampons in combined terrain as well as safe fix rope handling is necessary at all times. Steep alpine rock climbing up to grade 5 (UIAA)/5.6 (US) belayed in a roped team should not be a problem for you. Even if most passages of the route will be secured by fixed ropes (from below C1 all the way to the summit) you must not underestimate the demands of the ascent that will only be overcome with sovereignty and pleasure by an adept climber.


You are an experienced alpinist with a good routine in combined and glaciated terrain as found on the high routes of the Alps. You have collected some experience with high elevation on mountains in the range of 5000/6000m, gaining a positive sensation regarding your personal health and fitness at high altitude.


A warm expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone to -20° C) for the high camps, an extra sleeping bag for basecamp, high quality down clothing and expedition boots are the essential ingredients of your personal climbing equipment. A rope ascender (jumar) with handle is needed for fix rope handling (for weaker climbers two devices are advisable). For more details and suggestions please consult our equipment check list. If you have any questions regarding your gear, please feel free to call us any time. Experienced specialists who have guided this mountain many times will help you with all of your needs.


01. Day: DEPARTURE – from home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile.

02. Day: ARRIVAL – in Kathmandu (1.300 m), Nepal, and transfer to the hotel in the city center. In the evening you will meet the rest of the team and get to know the details about the next couple of days. Hotel (-,-,D).

03. Day: KATHMANDU – You can start your journey with getting to know Nepal and its fascinating culture by visiting some of the most renowned sights: The Hindu sanctuary Pashupatinath, the Buddhist Stupas of Bodnath and Swayambunath. In the meantime your expedition leader will pass the mandatory briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Hotel (B,-,D)

04. Day: PHAKDING – Flight to Lukhla (2.860 m) in a small plane. The trail leads us down to Phakding (2.620 m), right beside the “Milk River” Dudh Kosi. WT 3 h, ↑150 m ↓350 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

05. Day: NAMCHE BAZAR – After passing the entrance of the National Park at Jorsale, you follow a steep path up to Namche Bazar (3.440 m), the “capital of the Khumbu”. WT 5–6 h, ↑1050 m↓200 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

06. Day: ACCLIMATIZATION - and hikes in the scenic vicinity of Namche Bazar. Lodge (B,L,D)

07. Day: PHORTSE – Following the trail up the main valley to Phortse, at the intersection to the Gokyo Valley. WT 5 h, ↑600 m↓200 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

08. Day: MACHERMO – Between the icy faces of Arakam Tse and Machermo Peak you follow the trail up higher to Machermo (4.470 m). WT 7 h, ↑1.000 m ↓500 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

09. Day: GOKYO – Up to the morraine of Ngozumpa Glacier where you enter the flat valley floor of the Gokyo Valley and hike up higher to Gokyo Lake (4.750 m). WT 4–5 h, ↑500 m ↓100 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

10. Day: DRAGNANG – Gokyo Ri (5.357 m) can be climbed in the morning, if the weather is fine. After returning to the lodge, you descend to Dragnang (4.700 m) on the other side of the glacier. WT 6-7 h, ↑700 m ↓750 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

11. Day: DZONGLA – Crossing Cho La Pass (5.420 m) we descend to the pasture of Dzongla (4.850 m) on the other side of the pass. WT 7 h, ↑750 m ↓600 m. Lodge (B,L,D)

12. Day: LOBUCHE BC – Passing Awi Peak (5.245 m) we return to the main valley, along the mighty tongue of the Khumbu Glacier we reach Lobuche East BC (4.900 m). WT 2–3 h, ↑350 m↓100 m. Tent (B,L,D)

13. Day: LOBUCHE HC – A hike over steep meadows and scree leads us to the high camp (5.250 m). WT 2 h, ↑450 m. Tent (B,L,D)

14. Day: LOBUCHE EAST – Early in the morning we climb scree, big blocks and slabby rock towards the beginning of the ice and snow covered Southeast Ridge. We follow the ridge line over several scarps to the Southeast Summit (5.940 m). A breathtaking view of Ama Dablam on the other side of the valley is a grand prize for all labour. The way to the Main Summit (6.119 m) is obstructed by a knife edge ridge line which can only be overcome in the best of conditions. Descent to Pangboche (3.930 m) on the same day. WT 56 h, 7 h Hm, 700 m 900 m.  Lodge (B,L,D)


15. Day: BASE CAMP – A relaxed stage is leading us over a small pass, decorated with dark chortens, and into Base Camp (4.600 m), which lies scenicly on a wide pasture. WT 3-4 h, ↑900 m ↓250 m. Tent (B,L,D)

16. - 26. Day: AMA DABLAM – 11 days are planned in to climb the mountain. Enough time to set up the high camps together with your Climbing Sherpas and prepare for the summit push. Three high camps (C1 5.800 m, C2 6.050 m, C3 6.300 m) are usually set up on the way, whereas the second one on the “Yellow Tower” offers very little space and is usually skipped on the final summit attempt. If you are lucky to summit on a fine day, your view of close-by Makalu, Lhotse, Everest and Cho Oyu will be breathtaking. We return, abseiling and down-climbing the same route, taking all camping gear and garbage with us down to Basecamp. Tent (B,L,D)

27.- 28. Day: RETURN TO LUKHLA – Two days are enough to return to Lukhla via Namche Bazar. WT approx.12 h, ↑1.100 m ↓2.950 m (total). Lodge (B,L,D)

29. Day: FLIGHT TO KATHMANDU – if the weather plays along, and transfer to the hotel. Finally a hot shower and a cold beer! Hotel (B,L,D)

30. Day: KATHMANDU – free time for sightseeing and shopping or time reserve if anything should go wrong. Hotel (B,L,D)

31. Day: DEPARTURE – Check in at the airport and flight back home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile. (F,-,-). 32. Day: ARRIVAL – at home, depending on your flight connections.

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UIAGM experienced Mountain Guide


32 Days


THU 07.10.2021 till SUN 07.11.2021

preparatory meeting

Date will follow


from 10 participants

9.950,00 Euro per Person


from 8,9 participants

10.485,00 Euro per person


Single Supplement 250,00 Euro per Person


if you needmore infos, please contact us


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Ama Dablam Expedition, Ama Dablam Besteigung, Am Dablam route, Ama Dablam Basislager, Ama Dablam Daten & Fakten