View from camp I - direction ascending route
Mount Cho Oyu is without doubt the most popular peak with an altitude of more than 8.000 meters. For this phenomenon there are several reasons. Lying directly on the border between Nepal and Tibet it can be quickly accessed by either Kathmandu or Lhasa on good roads. Additionally it offers a rewarding and straightforward route that is not too hard to tackle. Lastly, but not least, all procedures on the mountain – from a successful itinerary over a qualified fixing team to the location of safe campsites – have been well proven and confirmed over many years. This unique combination makes Cho Oyu the peak with the most successful summiteers of all 14 eight-thousanders.
AMICAL alpin expedition groups have successfully climbed the summit of Cho Oyu 24 times since 1995.
CHALLENGING 8.000 m EXPEDITION
You are an alpinist with a very good endurance and a high degree of commitment and team spirit. The material used together with the rest of the group, such as security equipment, fix rope materials, tents, as well as setting up the High camps will be taken care of by the Climbing Sherpas. Your personal Climbing Sherpa will additionally assist you in carrying your personal climbing gear. Nevertheless you will have to be able to deal with a backpack weighing up to 15 kilograms.
You are a solid climber and glacier traveler, able to climb steep ice and firn slopes of up to 40° without being belayed by a rope or using fix ropes in standard situations (short sections, no crevasses). On Cho Oyu most of the ascent will be secured by fix ropes, especially the difficult passages. The climbing route above Camp 1 follows a lengthy ridge (6.300 m - 6.500 m) and takes you through wide, angled firn slopes (Camp 2 - 3) to a final steep section above Camp 3, the „Yellow Band“ (40m / 70-80°). The rest of your summit day will carry you through modest combined terrain (some short sections UIAA difficulty II, in fall mostly covered by snow). The glaciated passages of the route may be obstructed by crevasses. Every expedition member has to be self-sufficient in glacier rescue techniques and practice these on a regular basis. If you are in doubt, we recommend a 2-day refresher glacier rescue training, dates may be found in our program.
You are an experienced alpinist with a good routine in combined and glaciated terrain as found on the high routes of the Alps. You have collected some experience with high elevation on mountains in the range of 6.000/7.000 m and successfully climbed at least one higher or technically demanding 7.000 m-Peak in the past, gaining a positive sensation regarding your personal health and fitness at high altitude.
A warm expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone to -25° C) for the High camps, an extra sleeping bag for Basecamp, high quality down clothing and expedition boots are the essential ingredients of your personal climbing equipment. For more details and suggestions please consult our equipment check list. If you have any questions regarding your gear, please feel free to call us any time. Experienced specialists who have guided this mountain many times will help you with all of your needs.
01. Day: DEPARTURE – from home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile.
02. Day: ARRIVAL – in Kathmandu (1.300 m), Nepal, and transfer to the hotel in the city center. In the evening you will meet the rest of the team and get to know the details about the next couple of days. Hotel (-,-,D).
03. Day: KATHMANDU – We will immediately start with the time consuming formalities for the visa and climbing permit requirements in Tibet at the Chinese embassy. Since 2018 this makes 2 to 3 days in Kathmandu mandatory. For you this does not mean any lost time, however. You can start your journey with getting to know Nepal and its fascinating culture by visiting some of the most renowned sights: The Hindu sanctuary Pashupatinath, the Buddhist Stupas of Bodnath and Swayambunath. Hotel (B,-,D)
04.-05. Day: KATHMANDU – After having visited the most interesting sights of the capital the day before, you will enlarge your operating range today on Patan and Bhaktapur, the most important cities of the Kathmandu Valley with their beautiful historical buildings. With a little bit of good luck you will receive all necessary paperwork in the evening and the journey to Tibet can start. (B,-,D)
06. Day: SYABRU BESI – After an early departure from Kathmandu you will head towards the new border crossing from Nepal to Tibet that is located in the Langtang region. Due to the massive demolitions in the 2015 earthquake the old road connection over Zhangmu remains closed for tourists still. For the first three hours to the small town of Trishuli Bazar you will enjoy halfway decent roads, on the second half of the trip to Syabru Besi (1.450 m) the road becomes rougher and rougher. TF 8-9 h, 120 Km. Lodge (B,L,D)
07. Day: KYIRONG – Following the Pasang Lhamu Highway you will reach the Nepali border town Rasuwaghadi and enter Tibet after lengthy border formalities. A short stretch on good roads takes you further to Kyirong (2.350 m) where you will spend your first night in Tibet. TF 3-4 h, 70 Km. Lodge (B,L,D)
08. Day: OLD TINGRI - Finally you are on the huge Tibetan High Plain and arid, scant land mingles with deep blue, huge lakes before you arrive in Old Tingri (4.350 m). TF 4-5 h, 260 Km. Lodge (B,L,D)
09. Day: CHINESE BASECAMP – With four-wheel-drive-vehicles you travel the last part of the distance towards so called Chinese Basecamp/CBC (4.900 m) at the end of the Gyabrag-Gletschers and for the first time you will sleep in your own tent. TF 3h, 80 Km. Tent (B,L,D)
10. Day: ACCLIMATIZATION DAY – A whole day here and a short hike to increase acclimatization. Tent (B,L,D)
11.-12. Day: BASECAMP – In one and a half days you can reach the real basecamp (Tichy Basecamp, 5.680 m) over an intermediate camp (Palung Ri Camp, 5.300 m), if conditions are favorable. Yaks will carry all equipment and supplies. WT 5–6 h, ↑450 m/ 4 h ↑300 m. Tent (B,L,D)
13. - 37. Day: CHO OYU – From now on you have 25 days at your disposal for climbing the mountain. The route of ascent follows basically the route of the first ascent in 1954. Starting over the flat Gyabrag-Gletscher you will reach an awkward slope composed of lose scree, in joke dubbed „killer slope“, taking you up to Camp I on 6.400 m. Here begins the glaciated terrain of the Northwest Ridge, which you will follow over an elegant snow ridge and some steep sections to a final steep 40 m bluff (60-70°). A flat plateau on 6.600 m follows, before it turns into a 30 - 40° snow slope. Camp II lies on a small glacier terrace at 6.950 m. The route carries you on through a big recess below the northern headwall and into a steep snow slope (40°) over which you will access a not very well defined ridge on which lie the small platforms of the last camp, Camp III (7.350 m). Still 850 meters are missing towards the summit. First, however, you will have to find the gap through the „Yellow Band“, a band of yellow colored rock at 7.500 m altitude. For this one will have to traverse several hundred meters to circumnavigate the rock band or (in the case of a lot of snow) directly climb a strenuous 50 m high rock step (ca. 80°) with the help of fixed ropes. Soon after you will arrive at the central snow field of the summit slopes by a long snow field or (after directly climbing the Yellow Band) steep snow couloirs (50°), again with the help of fixed ropes. After that you have already made it. Only some 35° steep, mixed terrain separates you from the „Summit Mushroom“, the snow covered roof of the mountain, over which you traverse all the way to the main summit (8.201 m) of the sixth highest peak of the world, Cho Oyu. In between the rotations to the high camps and before the final summit push rest days in basecamp are included. Tent (B,L,D)
38. Day: CBC/TINGRI – In one go with Yaks to the Chinese Basecamp and on the same day on to Old Tingri (4.350 m) with four-wheel-drives. WT 5-6 h, ↓750, TF 3 h, 80 Km. Lodge (B,L,D)
39. Day: KYIRONG – Following the known route back to Kyirong (2.350 m) you will spend your last night in Tibet. TF 4-5 h, 260 Km. Lodge (B,L,D)
40. Day: KATHMANDU – Back to the capital of Nepal and check in to your hotel. TF 10-12 h, 200 Km. Hotel (B,L,D)
41. Day: RESERVE DAY - In case something should not have worked out as planned. Otherwise opportunity for last shopping and sightseeing. Hotel (B,-,D)
42. Day: DEPARTURE – Flight back to your home country, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile. (B,-,-)
43. Day: ARRIVAL AT HOME – according to your flight connections.
UIAGM experienced Mountain Guide
SAT 28.08.2021 till SUN 09.10.2021
Date will follow
from 8 participants
30.980,00 Euro per person
from 7 participants
31.730,00 Euro per person
from 6 participants
33.330,00 Euro per persoon
Single Supplement 395,00 Euro
Here you can read our TRAVEL TERMS
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