Makalu, with 8.485 m, is the fifth highest mountain in the world, located in the Mahalangur Himalaya some 30 km southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. This expedition over the classic French Route offers an exciting, varied and technically challenging climb.
With the aid of oxygen and a personal Climbing Sherpa per member we can restrict the duration of the expedition to a compact 44 days total.
This expedition will be guided by a well experienced UIAGM Mountain Guide from our AMICAL alpin team.
Makalu, with 8.485 m the fifth highest mountain on earth, is an ambitious venture, merely through the extreme elevation it is encumbering the aspirant with. Some of the stages are technically demanding and arduous. The ascent to the summit will be carried out in self-sufficient, self-responsible roped teams, advised and surveyed by the expedition leader.
For admission, a climbing record, showing the experience of the last 3-5 years should be added to the application.
difficult 8.000er EXPEDITION
You are an alpinist with a very good endurance and a high degree of commitment and team spirit. The material used together with the rest of the group, such as security equipment, fix rope materials, tents, as well as setting up the high camps will be taken care of by the Climbing Sherpas. Your personal Climbing Sherpa will additionally assist you in carrying your personal climbing gear. Nevertheless you will have to be able to deal with a backpack weighing up to 15 kilograms at these high elevations.
You are a solid climber and glacier traveler, able to climb steep ice and firn slopes of up to 40° without being belayed by a rope or using fix ropes in standard situations (short sections, no crevasses). The most demanding passages of the route with steep combined terrain are waiting in the stage to Makalu La (7.400 m) between C2 and C3, as well as on summit day, in the French Couloir and the exposed Summit Ridge. All of these are secured with fix ropes whereas its quality can vary the higher you get. A perfect routine with ice axe and crampons in combined terrain as well as safe fix rope handling are necessary at all times. The glaciated passages of the route may be obstructed by crevasses. Every expedition member has to be self-sufficient in glacier rescue techniques and practice these on a regular basis. If you are in doubt, we recommend a 2-day refresher glacier rescue training, dates may be found in our program.
You are an experienced alpinist with a good routine in combined and glaciated terrain as found on the high routes of the Alps. You have collected some experience with high elevation on mountains in the range of 6000/7000 m and successfully climbed at least one higher or technically demanding 7000 m-Peak in the past, gaining a positive sensation regarding your personal health and fitness at high altitude.
A warm expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone to -25° C) for the high camps, an extra sleeping bag for basecamp, high quality down clothing and expedition boots are the essential ingredients of your personal climbing equipment. For more details and suggestions please consult our equipment check list. If you have any questions regarding your gear, please feel free to call us any time. Experienced specialists who have guided this mountain many times will help you with all of your needs.
01. Day: DEPARTURE – from home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile.
02. Day: ARRIVAL – in Kathmandu (1.300 m), Nepal, and transfer to the hotel in the city center. In the evening you will meet the rest of the team and get to know the details about the next couple of days. Hotel (-,-,D)
03. Day: KATHMANDU – You can start your journey with getting to know Nepal and its fascinating culture by visiting some of the most renowned sights: The Hindu sanctuary
Pashupatinath, the Buddhist Stupas of Bodnath and Swayambunath. In the meantime your expedition leader will pass the mandatory briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
04. Day: NUM – With a small plane you will travel to Tumlingtar (410 m) in Eastern Nepal. Four-wheel-drive-vehicles will take you over a ridge of hilltops over Khandbari (1.040 m) to Num (1.560 m). TF 4 h, ↑1.100m. Tent (B,L,D)
05. Day: SEDUWA – The first trekking day: A steep descent down to the river Arun, over the suspension bridge, and on the other side, in a sudatory climb uphill through dense jungle thickets to the small village Seduwa (ca. 1.600 m). WT 4 h Hm ↑900m↓800m. Tent (B,L,D)
06. Day: TASHIGAON – In the Arun valley you continue through primeval forest and the fields of small hamlets up to the Sherpa town of Tashigaon (2.180 m), the highest permanent settlement in the valley. WT 4 h, ↑600m↓100m. Tent (B,L,D)
07. Day: KAUMA LA - Leaving Tashigaon, you climb uphill through dense forest and lushly blooming rhododendron trees to the small mountain pasture of Kauma La (3.625 m), at the
foot of the high passes to the Barun valley.
WT 6 h, ↑1450m↓100m. Tent (B,L,D)
08. Day: DOBATO – An exhausting sDaye will take you over the passes today. After leaving the steep forest you enter the high alpine landscape with shrubbs and pastures. Many
walls with prayer stones and flags, as well as ice cold, deep blue lakes make for a scenic setting in front of the gigantic mountain massiv of Makalu. With traversing the double passes of Shipton
La (4.170 m) and Barun La (aka Tutu La 4.080 m) for the first time we surpass 4.000m of altitude. A long descent takes you down to the jungle clearings of Dobato (3.850 m) or Mumbuk (3.520 m)
above the densely wooded valley floor of the Barun river valley.
WT 5-7 h ↑1.000m↓700-1.000m. Tent (B,L,D)
09. Day: YANGLE KHARKA – A steep descent through forest and thickets of shrubs down to the Barun River (ca. 3.200 m) is followed by a long traverse alongside the stream, at last
crossing over a wooden bridge to the high pastures of Yangle Kharka (3.760 m) on the other side.
WT 5-6 h ↑600m↓600-900m. Tent (B,L,D)
10. Day: LANGMALE – Behind a wild valley end we leave the timber line behind us and camp on the high pasture of Langmale (4.450 m) surrounded by numerous impressive six and seven thousand meter high peaks. WT 4 h, ↑800m↓50m. Tent (B,L,D)
11. Day: HILLARY BC – Today you will reach the historic Makalu Basecamp (aka „Hillary Basecamp“, 4.850 m) passing the uninhabited pasture of Sherson (4.650 m) in a short sDaye. This will give you time for a short stroll through the vicinity with spectacular views on the West Ridge of Makalu in the afternoon. WT 4-5 h, ↑600m↓400m. Tent (B,L,D)
12. Day: Rest Day – to improve acclimatization. Tent (B,L,D)
13. Day: ABC – An arduous ascent will take you up to the advanced basecamp (ABC). Following the side moraine of the glacier you finally cross the stream of ice and scree to the
other side. Steep slopes, covered with big blocks of rock, are obstructing the way up the side valley of the Chago Glacier. Beware of rock fall and to lose the at times hardly visible path
amongst the scree! On a small hill right at the tongue of the Chago Glacier you reach ABC at 5.650 m.
WT 7 h ↑900m↓100m. Tent (B,L,D)
14. Day to 36. Day: MAKALU - 22 Days are planned for climbing the mountain. In a constant up and down you will adapt to high altitude and visit three of the four
high camps on the mountain (C1 6.100 m, C2 6.600 m, C3 7.400 m, C4 7.600 m) – the last one will only be used before summit day. The crux sections of the route with steep combined terrain and many
meters of fixed rope are waiting in the stage to Makalu La (7.400 m) between C2 and C3, as well as on summit day in the French Couloir and the exposed Summit Ridge. C1: WT 4-5 h ↑450m / C2: WT
5-6 h ↑500m / C3: WT 7-9 h, ↑800m / C4: WT 2-3 h ↑200m / Summit:
WT 12-18 h ↑↓890m. Tent (B,L,D)
37.- 41. Day: RETURN – Via the known route through the Barun and Arun River valleys back to Num (1.560 m). Jeeps are already awaiting you there. After you have said good bye to your expedition staff you will roll down the last part of the distance to Tumlingtar (410 m). Tent (B,L,D)
42. Day: KATHMANDU – Air flight back to the city in the morning and transfer to your hotel. Finally a hot shower and a cold beer! Hotel (B,-,D)
43. Day: DEPARTURE – Check in at the airport and flight back home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile. (F,-,-)
44. Day: ARRIVAL – at home, depending on your flight connections.
Experienced AMICAL alpin
UIAGM Mountain Guide
FR 10.04.2020 till SAT 23.05.2020
date will follow
19.950,00 Euro per person
20.950,00 Euro per person
single supplement hotel
280,00 Euro per person
Don´t hesitate to contact us.
Here you can read our travel terms
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