Mount Manaslu is the highest peak of the Gurkha massif and the eighth highest mountain in the world. It is located about forty miles east of Mount Annapurna. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape as a dominant feature. Since the tightening of mountaineering regulations in Tibet and the accompanying massive increase of costs for Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, the regular route of Manaslu is being traded as THE first-time eight-thousand-meter-peak. No wonder, since the route of the Japanese first ascent is straightforward and varied but encumbered with few difficulties. Its new popularity has not only brought more climbers to the mountain but also perfect route fixing through the crevassed icefall, the crux section of the ascent. In fall the weather, that can be turbulent on Manaslu sometimes, is most stable and offers best chances - besides Cho Oyu maybe - for a summit success of any of the eightthousanders!
CHALLENGING 8.000 m EXPEDITION
You are an alpinist with a very good endurance and a high degree of commitment and team spirit. The material used together with the rest of the group, such as security equipment, fix rope materials, tents, as well as setting up the high camps will be supported by the Climbing Sherpas. Nevertheless, you will have to be able to deal with a backpack weighing up to more than 15 kilograms at these high elevations.
You are a solid climber and glacier traveler, able to climb steep ice and firn slopes of up to 40° without being belayed by a rope or using fix ropes in standard situations (short sections, no crevasses). The most demanding passages of the route with steep firn/ice are waiting between C1 and 2 with a rugged ice fall (short sections of 70°, fix rope and aluminum ladders), as well as on the traverse over the steep hanging glacier between C3 and 4 (300 m, short sections of 60°, fix rope). All of these sections are secured with fix ropes. A perfect routine with ice axe and crampons in combined terrain as well as safe fix rope handling are necessary at all times, nevertheless. The glaciated passages of the route may be obstructed by crevasses. Every expedition member has to be self-sufficient in glacier rescue techniques and practice these on a regular basis. If you are in doubt, we recommend a 2-day refresher glacier rescue training, dates may be found in our program.
You are an experienced alpinist with a good routine in combined and glaciated terrain as found on the high routes of the Alps. You have collected some experience with high elevation on mountains in the range of 6.000/7.000m, gaining a positive sensation regarding your personal health and fitness at high altitude.
A warm expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone to -25° C) for the high camps, an extra sleeping bag for basecamp, high quality down clothing and expedition boots are the essential ingredients of your personal climbing equipment. For more details and suggestions please consult our equipment check list. If you have any questions regarding your gear, please feel free to call us any time. Experienced specialists who have guided this mountain many times will help you with all of your needs.
01. Day: DEPARTURE – from home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile.
02. Day: ARRIVAL – in Kathmandu (1.300 m), Nepal, and transfer to the hotel in the city center. In the evening you will meet the rest of the team and get to know the details about the next couple of days. Hotel (-,-,D).
03. Day: KATHMANDU – You can start your journey with getting to know Nepal and its fascinating culture by visiting some of the most renowned sights: The Hindu sanctuary Pashupatinath, the Buddhist Stupas of Bodnath and Swayambunath. In the meantime your expedition leader will pass the mandatory briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. Hotel (B,-,D)
04. Day: Dharapani – A long day on the road lies ahead of us. First by bus over the main roads to Besisahar (760 m). After a lunch break we will trade the bus for four-wheel-drives and drive up the Marsyangdi Valley on a rough and adventurous dirt road until we reach Dharapani (1.860 m) in the Annapurna Sancutary. (TF 12-14 h, 235 km), Lodge (B,L,D)
05. Day: Kharche – Your trekking starts in Dharapani, where the Manaslu Round leaves the Anapurna Sanctuary. In a first, rather cosy stage, you follow the valley of the Dudh Khola through scattered hamlets and fields to Kharche (2.700 m). WT 5 h ↑ 800 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
06. Day: Bimthang – You climb up the valley through primeval forest until you reach the scree of the end moraine of the Bimthang Glacier, which you have to traverse beneath a steep slope. If you are lucky with the weather, you will have a wonderful view over to the North and West Faces of Manaslu. The rest of the way you will follow a vegetated moraine ridge to the small summer pastures of Bimthang (3.700), a very idyllic place. WT 6 h ↑ 1.050 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
07. Day: Acclimatisation Day – In order to increase your adaptation to the high elevations of the next days, you will spend an extra day at this critical altitude. A short walk to the scenic Ponkar Lake (4.100 m) is a worthwhile pastime. WT 3 h, ↑↓ 400 m Lodge (B,L,D)
08. Day: Larkya La – Today the crux stage is on the plan, the traverse of Larkya La Pass (5.135 m). You will start early into the day. After a while, the ascent will get steeper and more arduous. However, the path, also used by mules to transport goods between the villages, is broad and good. On the way, you will be rewarded by impressive views of the surrounding high mountains, Kang Guru (6.981 m), Gyachi Kang (7.074 m), Nemjung (7.140 m), und Panbari (6.905 m), before you reach the pass, lushly decorated with prayer flags. The descent on the other side is rather flat and easy – but very long. Over the pasture of Larkya Phedi (4.460 m) finally you reach the small hamlet of Samdo (3.850 m) at the foot of the pass. WT ↑6 h ↓4-5 h, 1.450 m ↓1.300 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
09. Day: Samagaon – After the last, exhausting day, it is only a short stretch through the broad river valley of Buri Gandaki today, down to the beautiful village of Samagaon (3.530 m). All of the time Manaslu (8.163 m) has been towering majestically over you. WT 2-3 h, ↓300 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
10. Day: Rest Day – In Samagoan (3.530 m). If you want, you can go on an acclimatization walk to Pung Ghyen Gompa (3.870 m) in a side valley and have a look at the impressive South Face of Manaslu. WT 3-4 h, ↑↓400 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
11. Day: Basecamp – With fresh porters from Samagaon you will take on the steep ascent to your home for the next weeks. Passing a scenic ice fall and through thickets of birch forest, you will reach a long moraine ridge that takes you all the way to basecamp (4.800-5.000 m) at the foot of the enormous Manaslu Glacier. WT 5,5 h, ↑ 1350 m, Tent (B,L,D)
12. bis 37. Day: Manaslu – Almost a month is now at your disposal, in order to adapt to increasing elevation and climb the summit. In a steady up and down, with rest days in basecamp in between, you will establish the three high camps (C1 5.600 m: WT 5-6 h, ↑800 m / C2 6.400 m: WT 6-7, ↑800 m / C3 6.800 m: WT 6 h ↑400 m) and sleep in them, to adapt. Only at the final summit bid, the last high camp will be moved up to 7.400 m, installing a C4 for this occasion (WT 6-8 h ↑800 m). The crux sections of the route are the rugged ice fall (short sections of 70°, fix rope and aluminum ladders) between C1 and 2, as well as the traverse over the steep hanging glacier between C3 and 4 (300 m, short sections of 60°, fix rope). Summit day finally takes you through relatively easy terrain and wide snow slopes. Two steeper steps are overcome with fix ropes until you reach the summit col and the exposed ridge to pre-summit and main summit. On a fine day the view is exceptional – you will see from Dhaulagiri to Annapurna in the west, and all the way to Shisha Pangma in the east. Tent (B,L,D)
38. Day: Descent to Samagaon – For a decent summit party, if everything worked out right. In case, you should have needed more time to climb the mountain than planned or the summit window should have come very late, you can consider a return by helicopter to Kathmandu (time saved is 4-5 days – additional charges). WT 2-3 h, ↓1350 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
39. bis 43. Day: Return to Arughat – If everything ran according to plan, you have enough time to end your Manaslu experience by completing the classic Manaslu Round Trekking over idyllic stages through the Buri Gandaki Valley (stages: Namrung 2.630 m, Deng 1.860 m, Jagat 1.340 m, Liding 860 m) back to Arughat (570 m). On the last day a bus will take you back to Kathmandu (1.300 m). Ø WT 5-7 h,↓1.000 m↑500 m, Lodge (B,L,D)
44. Day: Kathmandu – free time for sightseeing and shopping or time reserve if anything should go wrong. Hotel (B,L,D) 45. Day: DEPARTURE – Check in at the airport and flight back home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile. (F,-,-). 46. Day: ARRIVAL – at home, depending on your flight connections.
45. Day: DEPARTURE - Checkin at the airport and flight back home, with a stopover at the air carrier`s turnstile (F,-,-).
46. Day: ARRIVAL - at home, depending on your flight connections.
UIAGM experienced Mountain Guide from our AMICAL alpin Team
THU 26.08.2021 till SUN 10.10.2021
Date will follow
from 9 participants
13.800,00 Euro per person
from 6 participants
15.300,00 Euro pro Person
Single Supplement 280,00 Euro per Person
Here you can read our TRAVEL TERMS