Muztagh Ata, Muztagh Ata Expedition
Gipfel des Muztagh Ata

Muztagh Ata, “The Father Of The Ice Mountains”, as the name translates into English, lies in the middle of the Kun-Lun Mountains of China´s westernmost province Xinjiang.


On the brim of the Takla-Makan Desert, close to the borders of Pakistan, Tadjikistan and Kyrgistan, the huge mountain massiv is an ideal goal for novice high altitude climbers. As well as a fantastic venture for skitouring or snowshoeing enthusiasts. The journey to Muztagh Ata begins on the ancient trading route “The Silk Road”, the aura of which is still perceptible over many of the townships on the way. Elaborate tactics for acclimatization and smoothly working organizational schemes are prerequisites to carry out a Muztagh Ata expedition in only 28 days.


Our long standing experience on the mountain has made us refine and optimize this itinerary in a steady process to give you the best chances to successfully reach the summit!


what do i get for my money

• Organization of the entire expedition and climbing permits

Experienced AMICAL alpin expedition leader, UIAGM Mountain Guide

• Air flight Germany - Bishkek and back, 30 kg check in, 7 kg hand baggage free (we can exclude the international flight, if you start from a different origin)

• All airport taxes and fees

• All transfers and sightseeings according to program

• 4 nights hotel (DR, HB)

• 4 nights in yurts (HP)

• Fullboard during the whole trip

• Tent accommodation in BC (ST, FB) and HCs (DT,FB)

• Baggage transport to BC and back (camels/mules, trucks)

• Sirdar, cook, kitchen boys in BC

• Complete BC equipment (diner, shower, toilet, sleeping tent, etc.)

• Complete HC equipment (tent, stove, gas, etc.)

• 1 camping mattress/person

• Complete route fixing gear

AMICAL - additional services

• Transport/support for the group equipment up to C2

• Walkie-talkies (1 per tent team)

• Sat Phone and E-Mail Service in BC

• Weather forecast

• Rental of snowshoes

• Medicine box for BC and emergency medicine boxes for   high camps

• Pulsoxymeter, medical oxygen for BC and HCs

• AMICAL alpin present

• Expedition postcards

• Preparatory meeting before the expedition


Muztagh Ata, in technical terms, is a relatively easy 7.000m-peak without any greater obstacles. The average inclination lies between 30 and 35 degrees, even short scarps rarely higher. The icefall between C 1 and 2 holds some crevasses in store, which are otherwise hard to find on the mountain. Nevertheless, the challenges imposed by cold temperatures (due to high altitude), strong winds and long stages must not be underestimated. The ascent still is a serious alpine undertaking at extreme elevation.



mountaineering experience

physical fitness

You are an alpinist with a good endurance and a high degree of commitment and team spirit. The transport of the common material, such as security equipment, tents, etc., will be supported by high porters. Nevertheless, you will have to be able to deal with a backpack weighing up to more than 15 kilograms at these high elevations.

TECHNIcal skills

You are a solid climber and glacier traveler, able to climb ice and firn slopes of up to 35 degrees without being belayed by a rope or using fix ropes in standard situations (short sections, no crevasses). The most demanding passages of the route with short steeper sections of firn/ice are waiting between C1 and 2, crossing an ice fall. Some crevasse bridges may have to be secured with fix ropes. A solid routine with ice axe and crampons in glaciated terrain as well as reliable rope handling are necessary at all times, nevertheless. Every expedition member has to be self-sufficient in glacier rescue techniques and practice these on a regular basis. If you are in doubt, we recommend a 2-day refresher glacier rescue training, dates may be found in our program.

mountaineering experience

You are an experienced alpinist with a good routine in combined and glaciated terrain as found on the high routes of the Alps. You have collected some experience with high elevation on mountains in the range of 5.000/6.000m, gaining a positive sensation regarding your personal health and fitness at high altitude.


A warm expedition sleeping bag (comfort zone to -20° C) for the high camps, an extra sleeping bag for basecamp, a warm down jacket and expedition boots are the essential ingredients of your personal climbing equipment. For more details and suggestions please consult our equipment check list. If you have any questions regarding your gear, please feel free to call us any time. Experienced specialists who have guided this mountain many times will help you with all of your needs.


01. Day: DEPARTURE – from home, with a stopover at the air carrier’s turnstile.

2. Day: ARRIVAL - Arrival in Bishkek (800 m) in the morning. In order to reach Torugart Pass, the border between Kyrgyzstan and China, we have to cross the country from north to south. The beautiful yurt camp “Tash Rabat” (3.000 m) at the foot of the pass will be our destination after a strenuous day on the bus. Near the camp lies an ancient fort, which used to provide shelter for travelers in times of the Silk Road. TF 8 h, 470 km. Yurt (B, L, D)

3. - 4. Day: ACCLIMATIZATION – A stop for two days in Tash Rabat will increase your acclimatization for the days to come. Short hiking trips in the scenic surroundings up to 4000 meters on easy terrain are a worthwhile pastime. The yurt camp with its 5-6 bed yurts, diner yurt, sauna and bar, will take care of a pleasant stay while you are here. Yurt (B, L, D) 5. Day: KASHGAR - Transfer to the Chinese border at Torugart Pass (3.752 m), where we have to change our bus for the rest of the way to Kashgar (1.270 m). TF 5-6 h, 250 km. Hotel (B, L, D)

6. Day: SHUBASHI - Leaving the flats of Kashgar behind, our bus will take us through the wild gorge of Gez and around the massiv of Konghur Tagh before we arrive at Shubashi close to Karakol Lake (3.720 m). TF 4-5 h, 200 km. Yurt (B, L, D)

7. Day: BASE CAMP - A short and easy trekking will take us to base camp (4.450 m) at the foot of the mountain. Our equipment will be carried by camels, some might also go by offroad trucks. Some of the structures in the camp are permanent (shower, toilet barracks), others will be set up by our team solely for ourselves (single

8. - 23. Day: MUSTAG ATA – 16 Days are planned in for climbing the mountain, to acclimatize and set up the high camps. Two to three high camps have to be established with the help of our high porters. Camp 1 will be set up at 5.450 m, camp 2 at 6.450 m and – if necessary - camp 3 at 6.900 m. This time frame will also suffice to wait out some bad weather or even make a second summit attempt. Descending the same route, we will take down all camping gear and garbage to base camp. Tent (B, L,D)

24. Day: KASHGAR - In the morning we will hike to Subashi and take our bus back to Kashgar. TF 4-5 h, 200 km. Hotel (B, L, D)

25. Day: SIGHTSEEING - in Kashgar, including Id Kah Mosque, Apak Hoja Tombs and Chini Bagh. In case of a delay on the mountain, this day can also be used as a time reserve. Hotel (B, L, D)

26. Day: RETURN – to Bishkek, crossing the Torugart Pass again and Chinese border control. Our local agency picks us up at the other side of the border and takes us to the yurt camp in Tash Rabat. TF 5-6 h, 250 km. Yurt (B, L, D)

27. Day: BISHKEK - the capital of Kyrgyzstan welcomes us back after almost a month. The city has a very special atmosphere, and the lush summer night invites us to celebrate our adventures with a unique Kyrgiz barbecue, beer and wine. TF 8 h, 470 km. Hotel (B, L, D)

28. Day: DEPARTURE & ARRIVAL - Night flight from Bishkek back home. Arrival according to flight connections.

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, UIAGM Moutain Guide Stephan Schanderl



SUN 11.07.2021 till SAT 07.08.2021

preparatory meeting

date will come soon


from 9 participants

6.900,00 Euro per person

from 8 participants

7.400,00 Euro per person


Single Supplement Hotel 210,00 Euro


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